Kit de mise à niveau de la fourche GcraftXYSS [Disponible d'avri

It's not the last bonsai, but I've abandoned the style of the past.
CT125 hunting turnips have been thoroughly sentenced to interestingItems

However, the Concept is a long distance touring custom down the road ω
We are not looking for anything other than durability and reliability from Silencer, so we naturally end up going for the high satisfaction suspension system.

So, I ordered Front's ForkInner Kit because I got enough feeling with NITRON for Rear.

In short, it looks like a kit to add a Preload Adjuster and a flow control PD Valve to the CT125 front fork that has no adjustment mechanism whatsoever.

And the installation process
It's hot and I'm overworked from yesterday, so my concentration is low, but I might not get a chance to do much, so I'll do it.

I have it but I don't look at the service manual ω

Hanging Center Stand, Fork top capQuantity:Pair (for Left and Right) (19mm) Leave the
Later it won't be loose ω

Pull out the Axle Shaft (14mm/19mm) Fixed Bolt, Brake Caliper (12mm×2) 、Hose guide (10mm) 、ABSCover (ph1×2) Bolt, Sensor fixed (8mmDeep) and remove the
Remove the Front Fender (10mm×4)

Loosen the ForkPinchBolt. (6mmHEX ×4) Pull out the Fork
If you have trouble pulling it off, you can use the bellows Fork Boots (ph0×4) and twist the Inner Tube off.

When you pull it out, dump the fork oil first.
Prepare an oil pan, remove the cap, collect the Spacer and Washer in the spring, let them stoke sufficiently, and leave them upside down in the oil pan for a while.

Put the Oil in the Teketoh.
Included Fork oil is 15w
Designated oil surface is 185mm
If you measure by volume, it is difficult to discharge, so the oil level is more reliable except for complete overhaul.
Pour a little less than half a pound of water into Teketoh, let it stoke 20 times, and leave it for a while.
If the air bubbles aren't removed, the oil level can't be accurately measured.
Manufacturer's Manual would be about an hour, but if you ask the Shop at FuTwo, they won't wait an hour for you.
It's an hourly rate...
Privater can wait all night.
There is a lot of information in this area from MotoMaintenance magazine, which the WeBigMagazine writers belonged to, but ω

(in addition to)
In the meantime, the maintenance of the Fork inner tube
Lightly wash with water, lightly clean with Parts cleaner and polish with PIKAL.
Then Parts cleaner again.

Fork Boots should also be cleaned.
The Inner Kit is installed in the PD Valve, Spring (Top is dense, bottom is coarse) Put in the top cap, Washer and collar in that order, apply a light coat of fork oil to the O-ring of the top cap and assemble.
Temporary fastening is sufficient

Fork Boots can only be passed through and concluded later.
Insert Fork into Triple tree
If the inner tube is tight, hold the inner tube and twist it in, and fasten the Pinch Bolt at the position where the upper end line of the inner tube and the upper part of the tree are in contact.

Before you put Fork Boots back in.
Fluorine oil sprayed near the fork seal

This time, the procedure was back and forth between ω

Then, screw lock the ABSSensor, put back the Cover, put back the Fender, assemble the Wheel, fasten the Axle Shaft, fasten the Hose guide and Brake Caliper.

After that, fasten the bottom of the ForkPinchBolt and tighten each part to complete.

I did a quick test run and the Front Shock input is pretty Mild.
PD Valve seems to be doing a good job of softening up Shock in Gap etc.
This guy's not so bad.
Dirt and other tests to come, but I'm generally happy with it.

My only complaint is that it's hard to tell which direction the Spring is pointing up and down during assembly unless you look closely!
Maybe the OnLineManual has something to say about it.
These things should be clearly stated.